BMX Guide
How to Build a Backyard Ramp
Building a backyard BMX ramp means planning a small quarter pipe or kicker, cutting curved sides, fixing timber ribs and bending plywood over the top.
Updated 5 min read1,158 words
A backyard BMX ramp is usually a small quarter pipe or a kicker built from timber and plywood. You cut two curved side panels to the shape of the transition, fix timber ribs between them, and bend sheets of plywood over the ribs to make the riding surface. A small, well braced ramp on flat ground is the safest place to start.
This guide covers planning and building a simple ramp. It gives common, conservative approaches, not engineered plans. If you are not confident with power tools, get help from someone who is.
Before you build
Check your council and your neighbours
In Australia, backyard structures are controlled by state planning rules and your local council. Each state lists some minor structures that can be built without approval if they meet size, height and setback limits, but a skate ramp may not fit neatly into those categories, and noise can also matter. Check your council website or call them before building anything large or permanent. Talk to your neighbours too. Ramps are loud, and goodwill keeps a backyard spot alive.
Choose the ramp type
| Ramp | What it does | Good for | Build difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kicker (launch ramp) | Sends you up and off the end | Airs, learning jumps, landing on flat | Easiest |
| Quarter pipe | Takes you up and back down the same way | Transitions, airs, stalls | Moderate |
| Box jump | Kicker, flat deck and landing | Jumps with a proper landing | Harder |
| Mini ramp | Two quarter pipes facing each other | Back and forth riding | Hardest, needs lots of space |
For a first build, a kicker or a small quarter pipe is the sensible choice.
Pick a size you can actually ride
Small ramps are more useful than big ones in a backyard. A tall ramp needs a long run up, a lot of space and more skill. A knee to waist height ramp with a gentle curve suits most riders and most yards.
The key measurements are:
- Height: how tall the ramp is at the top.
- Radius: the size of the circle the curve is drawn from. A larger radius makes a mellower, slower curve.
- Width: how wide the riding surface is. Wider is more forgiving.
A common rule of thumb is to make the radius larger than the height, so the ramp does not end in a steep vertical section. Riders who want vert can build that later.
Materials and tools
Materials
- Timber framing: outdoor rated timber such as treated pine for ribs and supports.
- Plywood for the sides: thick exterior grade sheets, cut to the curve.
- Plywood for the surface: thinner exterior grade sheets that bend over the curve, usually laid in two layers.
- Screws: exterior or galvanised screws long enough to bite well into the framing.
- Optional top layer: a dedicated ramp surface sheet for smoother, longer lasting riding.
- Optional coping: a steel pipe along the top edge of a quarter pipe for grinds and stalls.
Tools
- Jigsaw or circular saw
- Drill and driver
- Tape measure, pencil and a long straight edge
- String and a nail or screw for drawing curves
- Clamps
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and gloves
Exact sheet thicknesses and screw sizes depend on your ramp size and the products available. Follow the timber supplier's guidance for outdoor use and ask at the hardware counter if you are unsure.
How to draw the transition template
The curve on the side panels is the most important part of the ramp. A smooth curve rides well. A lumpy one feels bad and can throw you off.
- Lay a full sheet of side plywood flat. Work on a clean, flat surface.
- Mark the toe. Mark the point on the bottom edge where the curve will meet the ground. This is the front of the ramp.
- Find the pivot point. The centre of the curve sits directly above the toe, one radius up. If the radius is bigger than the sheet is tall, the pivot will be off the sheet, so clamp a scrap board in place to hold it.
- Tie the string. Fix one end of a non stretch string to the pivot with a nail or screw. Tie a pencil at the radius length.
- Draw the arc. Keep the string tight and swing the pencil from the toe upwards. Stop when the curve reaches the ramp height. Free online transition calculators can tell you how long the base will be for a chosen height and radius.
- Add the deck and back. Mark a flat top (the deck) and a straight back edge.
- Cut carefully. Cut just outside the line, then sand back to it.
- Use the first side as a template. Trace it onto the second sheet so both sides match exactly.
For a kicker, the curve usually starts flat at the ground and ends at a gentle lip angle. Keep the lip mellow for your first build.
How to build a small quarter pipe
- Cut both side panels. Make sure they match.
- Cut the ribs. Cut timber cross pieces to the ramp width.
- Fix the ribs between the sides. Screw ribs along the curve at close, even spacing. Closer spacing gives a stiffer surface. Add ribs at the bottom edge, the top and the back for strength.
- Brace the frame. Add diagonal or vertical supports at the back so the ramp cannot rack (lean sideways).
- Build the deck. Add a flat platform at the top if your design has one, framed and covered like the rest of the ramp.
- Lay the first surface layer. Start at the bottom and bend each sheet over the ribs, screwing into every rib.
- Lay the second layer. Stagger the joins so they do not line up with the first layer.
- Fit a smooth bottom edge. The ramp should meet the ground with no lip. A thin metal or tapered plywood strip helps.
- Fit coping if you want it. Fix it securely at the top so it cannot move. Follow the coping supplier's instructions.
- Check every screw. Countersink screw heads flush or slightly below the surface so nothing catches a tyre or a shoe.
Surfacing and weatherproofing
- Seal outdoor ramps. Paint or seal the timber and keep the ramp off wet ground. Bricks or pavers under the frame help.
- Cover it. A tarp keeps the surface dry between sessions.
- Do not ride it wet. Wet plywood is very slippery.
- Replace soft spots. If the surface feels spongy or splits, replace that sheet before it fails.
Safety
- Wear a helmet every session. See the BMX helmet guide and protective gear.
- Leave space. Keep a clear run up and a clear area beyond the ramp, away from fences, walls, windows, pools and paths.
- Ride on flat, firm ground. A ramp on a slope can shift.
- Check the ramp before riding. Look for loose screws, cracked timber and wobble.
- Keep it small at first. Build bigger only once you can ride the small one with control.
- Supervise younger riders.
Related
Frequently asked questions about How to Build a Backyard Ramp
How big should my first backyard ramp be?
Start small. A kicker or quarter pipe around knee to waist height is plenty for most backyards. Small ramps are easier to build, easier to store and much safer to learn on.
Do I need council approval for a backyard ramp in Australia?
It depends on your state, your council, the size and height of the ramp and how close it is to boundaries. Some small structures are exempt from approval, but a ramp may not qualify, so check with your local council before you build.
What is the best surface for an outdoor ramp?
Exterior grade plywood is the usual base. Many builders add a second sheet or a dedicated ramp surface on top. Outdoor ramps need a cover or sealing, because wet timber swells, rots and becomes slippery.
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A quarter pipe is a ramp with a curved, quarter-circle transition that rises from flat to a vertical or near vertical top edge, used for airs.
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