BMX Guide
How to True a Wheel
Truing a BMX wheel means adjusting spoke tension with a spoke key, a little at a time, until the rim spins straight, round and centred in the frame or forks.
Updated 5 min read1,142 words
Truing a BMX wheel means adjusting the tension of individual spokes with a spoke key until the rim spins straight. A true wheel has no side to side wobble (lateral true), no up and down hop (radial true) and sits centred in the frame or forks (dish). You make small turns of the spoke nipples, check the result, and repeat until the rim runs straight with even spoke tension.
How truing works
Each spoke pulls the rim towards the hub. On a BMX wheel, spokes alternate between the left and right hub flanges. Tightening a spoke pulls the rim towards that spoke's side of the hub and towards the centre. Loosening it lets the rim move away.
| Problem | What you see | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Lateral wobble | Rim moves side to side, rubs a brake pad | Tighten spokes on the opposite side, loosen on the rub side |
| Radial hop | Rim moves up and down as it spins | Tighten spokes at a high spot, loosen at a low spot |
| Dish off centre | Rim sits closer to one side of the frame | Tighten all spokes on the side you want the rim to move towards |
| Uneven tension | Some spokes feel slack, wheel will not stay true | Even out tension, then re-true |
See spokes and rims for more on how wheels are built.
Tools
- Spoke key. It must fit your nipples snugly. A loose fitting key rounds the nipple flats. BMX wheels commonly use 14 gauge (2.0 mm) spokes, but nipple sizes vary, so check before buying.
- Truing stand (optional). Holds the wheel and gives you adjustable pointers on each side.
- Zip tie or pointer. For truing in the frame without a stand.
- Spoke tension meter (optional). Measures spoke tension for an even, accurate build.
- Marker or tape. For marking the valve hole or problem spots.
- Light oil. A drop on stiff nipples helps them turn without twisting the spoke.
Setting up
With a truing stand
- Remove the wheel from the bike.
- Take the tyre off if the rim is badly out, or leave it on for small adjustments.
- Fit the wheel in the stand and set the pointers close to the rim sidewalls.
In the frame (zip tie method)
- Flip the bike upside down or put it in a work stand.
- Make sure the axle is tight and centred in the dropouts.
- Fit a zip tie around a fork leg or chain stay, with the tail pointing at the rim sidewall.
- Trim the tail so it just brushes the rim at its closest point.
If you run brakes, the rear brake pads can work as a guide too.
Which way to turn
Spoke nipples use a standard right hand thread when viewed from the tyre side of the rim. Looking down at a nipple at the top of the wheel, clockwise tightens and anticlockwise loosens. When you work from the hub side, or on a nipple at the bottom of the wheel, the direction feels reversed.
If you are not sure, turn one nipple a quarter turn and see whether the rim moved the way you expected. Undo it if not.
How to true a wheel laterally
- Spin the wheel slowly. Watch the gap between the rim and the pointer. Find the spot where the rim comes closest or touches.
- Find the centre of the wobble. Note the spokes in the middle of the section that rubs.
- Adjust in pairs. If the rim rubs on the left, tighten the nearest right side spoke a quarter turn and loosen the nearest left side spoke a quarter turn.
- Spread the change. For a long wobble, adjust two or three spokes on each side, with smaller turns on the outer spokes.
- Spin and check. The gap should even out. Repeat with small turns.
- Move the pointer closer. As the wheel improves, bring the pointer closer and repeat until the wobble is within a millimetre or two.
Work from the biggest wobble to the smallest. Never make one huge correction on a single spoke.
How to true a wheel radially
- Set a pointer under the rim. Place it so it brushes the outer edge of the rim or the tyre bead area.
- Spin and find the high spot. This is where the rim moves away from the hub, and the pointer touches.
- Tighten spokes at the high spot. Tighten both left and right spokes in that area by the same small amount. This pulls the rim in without moving it sideways.
- Find low spots. Where the rim dips towards the hub, loosen the spokes in that area evenly.
- Recheck lateral true. Radial changes often affect side to side true, so go back and forth between the two.
Radial truing is slower and usually only needed for a visible hop. Small radial errors are common and often not noticeable when riding.
Checking dish
Dish is how centred the rim is between the hub's axle ends. A wheel can be perfectly round and straight but still sit off centre in the frame.
- Check in the frame. Look at the gap between the rim and each fork leg or chain stay.
- Flip the wheel. Turn the wheel around in the frame or stand. If the rim moves to the other side, the dish is off.
- Correct it. Tighten all spokes on the side you want the rim to move towards by the same small amount, such as a quarter turn each. Then re-true.
A dishing tool makes this more accurate. BMX front hubs are normally symmetrical, so front wheels need little or no dish. Rear wheels can need some offset, depending on the hub's flange spacing. See cassette hub and front hub.
Spoke tension
A wheel with even tension stays true for longer. A wheel with very loose spokes will wobble again soon. A wheel with very tight spokes can crack the rim or pull nipples through.
- Squeeze pairs of parallel spokes on each side. They should feel similar.
- Pluck spokes on the same side. Similar tension gives a similar note.
- A tension meter gives real numbers. Follow the rim maker's recommended tension range if you have one.
- After truing, squeeze pairs of spokes firmly to settle them, then spin and check again.
If the spoke twists with the nipple, it can untwist later and undo your work. Turn slightly past the target, then back off a little.
When to stop
Stop truing and seek help if:
- The rim has a dent, kink, crack or flat spot.
- Spokes are bent, broken or badly rusted.
- Nipples are seized or rounding.
- The wheel will not come true without some spokes going very slack.
A badly bent rim is a safety risk. Replace it or have a bike shop rebuild the wheel. Check wheels regularly as part of your BMX maintenance basics routine.
Related
Frequently asked questions about How to True a Wheel
Can I true a wheel without a truing stand?
Yes. Leave the wheel in the frame or forks and use a zip tie, a brake pad or a fixed pointer as a guide. A stand is faster and more accurate, but the frame method is fine for small wobbles.
Which way do I turn a spoke nipple to tighten it?
Spoke nipples use a normal right hand thread when viewed from the tyre side of the rim. If you are working from the hub side, the direction feels reversed. Make a quarter turn and check whether the rim moved the way you expected.
When is a wheel too bent to true?
If the rim is folded, kinked, cracked or badly dented, truing will not fix it safely. You will usually need a new rim or wheel. A bike shop can tell you if a wheel is worth saving.
Watch on the LUXBMX YouTube
A video about How to True a Wheel from the LUXBMX YouTube channel.
Shop at LUXBMX
Popular picks for this article from LUXBMX, an Australian BMX store.
G-Sport Spoke Wrench (2 in 1)View the G-Sport Spoke Wrench (2 in 1) at LUXBMX
Eclat Key Chain Spoke ToolView the Eclat Key Chain Spoke Tool at LUXBMX
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