Handlebars

BMX handlebars, or bars, are the tall, swept tubes that let a rider steer, lift the front wheel and push the bike through the air. They are built from chromoly steel, they clamp into the stem, and they carry a pair of grips on the ends.

What it does

Bars give leverage over the front wheel. They also take the shock of landings and the force of a pull on the front end. Their shape decides how the bike feels in your hands. A taller bar puts your hands higher and your body more upright. A wider bar gives more control but can snag on rails and walls.

The main measurements

• Rise. The height of the bar from the clamp to the grip. About 8 to 10 inch is common. Taller bars suit taller riders and riders who like a high front end.
• Width. Measured end to end. About 28 to 30 inch is usual. Narrow bars (around 27 to 28 inch) feel tight and quick. Wider bars (around 29 to 30 inch) feel steadier.
• Backsweep. The angle the grips bend back towards the rider. Around 9 to 12 degrees is common. It suits the natural angle of the wrists.
• Upsweep. The angle the grips tilt upward. Often 0 to 3 degrees. A touch of upsweep can relieve wrist pressure.
• Crossbar. The bar between the uprights adds strength and gives a place to attach cables or a pad.

Types and standards

Tube count: 2-piece and 4-piece

• 2-piece bars are made from two bent tubes, one per side, joined by a crossbar. They are simpler, lighter on cost and strong for general use.
• 3-piece bars use a one-piece centre section and two side tubes.
• 4-piece bars build each side from two separate sections, plus a crossbar. This lets the maker use thicker walls where stress is highest and thinner walls elsewhere. Makers often pitch 4-piece bars as stronger for the same weight, but a well-built 2-piece bar is also very durable.

Clamp size

Clamp	Typical use
22.2 mm (7/8 inch)	Standard BMX bars. Works with most stems.
25.4 mm (1 inch) oversized	Used on some bars for extra stiffness. Needs a matching oversize stem.

Grip ends are almost always 22.2 mm, so grips fit either bar type.

Materials and tubing

Most bars use chromoly (4130 chromium-molybdenum steel). It is strong, bends instead of snapping and is cheaper than titanium. Aluminium bars exist, usually for race or budget builds. Some makers use butted tubing. Butted tubes are thicker at the ends and thinner in the middle, which saves weight while keeping the strong points strong.

Sizing and compatibility

• Match the clamp diameter to the stem. A bar that does not match will not fit securely.
• Width and rise should suit your height and arm length. A rough start: under 165 cm, 8 inch rise and 28 inch width. Over 180 cm, 9 to 10 inch rise and 29 to 30 inch width.
• Check the crossbar position if you plan to run a gyro detangler or a front brake lever. Some bars have cable routing that works better with certain setups.
• Bar roll, which is the rotation of the bar in the stem, changes the feel. Roll the bar forward and the grips sit lower. Roll it back and they sit higher. Most riders set roll so the grips point slightly up and the wrist stays straight.

How to choose

1. Pick rise first. It changes the riding position most.
2. Choose width for comfort and control. If you ride a lot of ledges and rails, narrower can help.
3. Match sweep to your wrists. If you feel pain after a long session, try a different backsweep.
4. Decide on the tube count. A 2-piece bar is enough for most. A 4-piece bar suits riders who want the lightest strong option.
5. Check the clamp size against your stem.

Budget bars exist from a low price and go up as materials and construction improve. Higher cost often means better heat treatment, tubing and finish.

Maintenance

• Check the bar for dents, cracks and bends, especially near the stem clamp and welds. A bent bar is a weak bar.
• Tighten the stem bolts evenly, in a cross pattern, to the torque the stem lists.
• If the bar slips in the stem, clean both surfaces and retighten. Do not add grease to the clamp area unless the maker says so.
• Replace bars after hard crashes. Chromoly can crack where it has been stressed, even when the bend is hard to see.

Related parts

• Stem: holds the bars to the fork.
• Grips: fit over the bar ends.
• Forks: the bars connect to the fork through the stem.
• Gyro detangler: lets the bars spin without tangling the brake cable.
• Barspin: the trick that depends on the bars moving freely.